In Case You Think the PrimusZ is not "Real"

[ NOTE: A few folks have stopped by K & D where I am doing a lot of work curious about the new mod.  On fellow seemed to think that "it wasn't real."

So I am posting this back from September of 2013 - its an internal set of release notes about the initial prototypes released to Jr and Nick for testing (more on this will hopefully appear in a popular Vaping Magazine very shortly - it will include a discussion of who everyone is.)

Have you read other parts of this blog???  Really??? I am posting BS???

More will be coming from the past as well as lots of new posts... ]

YOU MUST READ ALL THIS CAREFULLY

IMPORTANT NOTES:

1) The mod processor is always running and will run the batteries out of power in about a day and a half with no vaping.  This is a bug and will be fixed.

2) After a setting change (see "setDuty" in the post about wireless communication) the vape light will not always come on the first time.

3) The 510 connector is not mounted very securely so try not to put a lot of pressure on the tank when its attached.

Assmebly and Disassembly

The following images show how to assemble (and following the steps backwards disassemble) the mod.

The main components are shown below.  The Arduino Uno board on the left, the basic mod and power circuit board on the right.  The connector pointed to by the blue arrow is the serial data cable.  THE DATA CABLE MUST BE ORIENTED AS DESCRIBED BELOW.

The yellow cable is the "vape" button and is not sensitive to which way its plugged in.

The red connector is the connector for the 510 and its also not sensitive to how its plugged in.

In order to put the mod together you first plug in the data cable, then the power cable and the "vape" button cable.  Then you attach the Arduino board to the power board.

The 510 connector plugs into the center plug on the power board.  The cable can be turned either way.

 

The "vape" button plugs into the right-side connector.  Again, it can be turned either way.

The data cable must be plugged in so that the "white" wires line up on the same side.

You next "fold over" the Arduino board so that it plugs into the power board as shown below.  Note that on EACH SIDE of the Arduino board there are two connectors with a GAP between them (see below purple arrows).

There are two round metal capacitors on the Arduino board (right of image above).  They must be positioned over the radio on the power board (left image above with small gold contacts above the world "SHIELD").

When the Arduino is plugged into the power board the gaps must line up.  There are extra socket slots and/or pins on the outside of each side of the connector.  Don't worry about those.  THE CENTER GAP MUST LINE UP and shown below.

Basically you flip the board over, line up the connectors as below, and plug it it (see video).

The red arrows below show where extra pins and/or socket holes can appear.  Only worry about the GAP IN THE CENTER.  This applies to BOTH SIDES of the mod.

 
See this for details:

The batteries must be positioned so that the (+) of BOTH BATTERIES must be oriented to the up (toward the top of the mod where the button and 510 connector are).

The POWER connector (above the battery case - black and white wire) must be oriented so that the white wire plugs into the side of the female connector that is soldered to the battery terminal

See this video for details:



In the image below you can see the lower white arrow points to the side of the connector soldered directly to the battery terminal.  The male connector must be positioned so that the white wire connects to that side of the terminal.

When the battery connector is plugged in the green Arduino power light will come on.  The mod is ready for use.

Another way to think about this is that the white wire should always be on the RIGHT SIDE of the mod with the power board facing away from you (power board behind the plastic).  (NOTE: One mode has the 510 on the right and one has the 510 on the left.  DON'T LET THIS CONFUSE YOU.)